Two finishing repairs come up again and again: shortening a hem on trousers or a skirt, and putting back a button that has worked loose. Both are quick, both can be done by hand or by machine, and both reward a little measuring before any stitching begins.
Turning a hem
A hem is simply the raw edge of fabric folded up and secured. The two decisions that matter are how much length to remove and how to finish the edge so it does not fray.
- Put the garment on and pin the new length, or measure up evenly from the existing hem with a ruler and mark all the way around.
- Fold the fabric to the inside along the marked line and press the fold flat; pressing does more than pinning to hold a crisp edge.
- Tuck the raw edge under, or finish it with a zigzag, so no cut threads are exposed inside the fold.
- Secure with small slip stitches by hand for an invisible finish, or a straight machine line for a visible, hard-wearing one.
Even is what reads as tidy
A hem that is perfectly level looks finished even if the stitching is plain. Measure at several points around the garment rather than trusting a single measurement.
Choosing a hem finish
| Fabric | Suggested finish |
|---|---|
| Light woven (shirts, cotton skirts) | Double-fold, slip-stitched or machine-straight. |
| Trousers & heavier weaves | Single fold with a zigzag-finished edge to limit bulk. |
| Knits | A narrow zigzag or stretch stitch so the hem flexes with the fabric. |
Reattaching a button
A button needs a small "shank" — a stem of thread between the button and the fabric — so there is room for the buttonhole layer to sit underneath without straining the stitches. The trick is to keep the button slightly raised while you sew.
- Mark the exact spot, lining up with the opposite buttonhole. Knot a doubled thread and bring the needle up from the underside.
- Lay a pin or matchstick across the top of the button and stitch over it, so the thread does not pull fully tight.
- For a two-hole button, stitch straight across several times; for a four-hole button, use parallel bars or a cross, matching nearby buttons.
- Remove the pin, bring the needle up under the button, and wind the thread several times around the threads to form the shank.
- Pass the needle to the back and finish with a few small stitches and a knot.
thin fabric -> light shank (1-2 mm)
coat / wool -> taller shank (matchstick width)
no shank -> button strains and pops loose
Matching thread and buttons
Keep spare buttons that come stitched inside new garments; they are the surest match if one is lost later. When matching thread, choose a shade slightly darker than the fabric rather than lighter — darker thread disappears, while lighter thread tends to stand out.
Background terminology for both repairs is covered in the public reference entries on the hem and the button. If a hem runs long or sits on heavy fabric, the machine setup guide will speed up the straight stitching.